Oaxaca: Danza de las Plumas in Teotitlán del Valle

Today's excursion resulted in a beautiful and historically enlightening result. In studying the continuity of Zapotec culture throughout our NEH Mesoamerican seminar, from pre-hispanic times to the present, we have learned that the Zapotec culture is alive and well throughout all of Oaxaca, and Teotitlán del Valle is a beautiful example of this continuity. As stated by our professor Dr. Robert Haskett, the indigenous people of Oaxaca did not disappear after the Spanish conquest (as popular theories would have us believe), but in fact thrive and prosper and have shaped Mexico into the country that it is today. Our guide Paco González, a Teotitlán del Valle native, also explained to me that over 90% of the town of Teotitlán del Valle (population 7,000) speaks Zapotec as a first language, and many times learn Spanish in primary school rather than in the home.

 

We left for Teotitlán del Valle early on Sunday morning, but not before eating some delicious "huevos divorciados" from the SP restaurant in the library where we study in Oaxaca de Juarez.

 We took a "collectivo" or shared taxi to Teotitlán del Valle with a group of five squeezed tightly into the car (four in the back!) Paco González first took us to his home and introduced us to his mother, Petra Vicente, who is 87 and wears a pre-hispanic headdress, traditionally worn by older women in the town.

Paco's home, with young cows in the courtyard.

Paco's mother, Petra Vicente, weaving by hand in a traditional European style.

 We also received a demonstration from Paco on the style of European weaving that he practices, along with his mother and a local women's collective.

Afterwards, Paco took us on a tour of the town of Teotitlán del Valle, where remnants of a grand Zapotec palace could still be seen. Paco explained that over 27 tombs were found on the grounds, although we were not permitted to explore the area.

 We spent time wandering the local market afterwards, tasting food and chatting with local vendors as we went.

While waiting for the "Danza de las Plumas" to start, we explored the local Catholic church, with ancient stones with Zapotec hieroglyphics placed into the walls of the church.

The "Danza de las Plumas" was well worth the wait, and featured a full marching band and over 15 dancers, as well as a mini Malinche and mini wife of Montezuma aged 9 and 8, respectively. 

Mini-Malinche, bottom right.

A quick stop back at Paco's casa to play with his four cute puppies, and we called it a day. I highly suggest a trip to Teotitlán del Valle if you are ever in the Oaxaca region!

Oaxaca: Yanhuitlan

"EL MUNDO CAMIBA CON TU EJEMPLO NO CON TU OPINION."  

"THE WORLD CHANGES WITH YOUR EXAMPLE, NOT WITH YOUR OPINION."

- Street art found near Casa del Cacique in Yanhuitlan

On Thursday we spent time in the region of Yanhuitlan, about an hour’s drive from Oaxaca de Juarez. We were able to receive a guided tour from Ron Spores, who is leading an excavation in two sites in Yanhuitlan, one, Casa del Cacique, a 16^th century indigenous noble’s home with a wealth of history, and another, the site of the biggest known city in the world at the time of the conquest in 1521.



Casa de Cacique was the home of the indigenous lord of Yanhuitlan, which also served as the site of the town council meetings, with nine patios. The Spanish institution of the cahildo allowed for indigenous self-rule, with meetings that occurred in the native languages and were also recorded in those languages. Funding on this project was recently lost, and Ron Spores (center) explained that we wish to see this funding restored so that renovation can continue on this fascinating site.

Photo credit: Robert Haskett

After our tour of Casa de Cacique, we explored an archeological site in the outskirts of Yanhuitlan, which according to survey may have been the largest city in the world at the time of conquest in 1521. The land has been surveyed but not excavated, and we were fortunate enough to have the ability to explore the area and find remnants of the great city with our own hands. I was overjoyed to be able to excavate and play archeologist for the day, as archeology was my dream job at the ripe age of eight!

A description of our exploration from fellow NEH Scholar Geoff Agnor:

“For most of his life, Gustavo has collected pottery and other important objects around his home in Coixtlahuaca, in the Mixteca Alta region of the north Oaxacan valley, which was historically inhabited by Chocho, Mixtec, and Nahuatl speakers. We found abundant shards of red on cream pottery and obsidian blades in the hills above Gustavo's house- archaeological evidence of a Mexica (Aztec) presence before Spanish conquest. Here Gustavo is seated in a room that serves as a pulqueria, living room, museum, and temple (out of frame; a rifle and hacksaw mounted on one wall and an elaborate Catholic altar at the far end of the room).”

Below, a few of my own excavations and a view of the cacti and landscape of the excavation site, such as the tripod leg of a pot that I found at the site (right).

That same day, we visited the ex-monastery Santo Domingo in Yanhuitlan. The monastery and house of worship was beautiful and extremely ornate. Below, the "mirador" or view of the pueblo of Yanhuitlan from the monastery.

Pictured below is a skeleton that is used in the local "Semana Santa" processions, as well as the "Dandy Jesus", illustrated wearing bloomers from the 16th century Spanish conquest. Also pictured below are original manuscripts or codices found in the monastery's museum.

And last but certainly not least, a photo of my friend Max that lives in the hacienda with me in Oaxaca for the month. ¡Qué guapo eres, Max!

Oaxaca: Monte Albán and Atzompa

In our second day of the NEH Institute, our visit to Monte Albán and Atzompa was led by Dr. Ronald Spores (who helped excavate the site in 1958), Dr. Stephanie Wood and Dr. Robert Haskett. Monte Albán and Atzompa are both World Heritage properties, and located only a few miles outside of Oaxaca de Juarez. The site was founded in 500 B.C and in habited until 850 A.D. Being able to listen to Spores, Wood and Haskett share their incredible knowledge was a great experience, and one that I won't forget! 

From here on out, I'll let the pictures do the talking!

Atzompa: 

Monte Albán: